(Above: Boleto de Museo de Arte Virreinal de Taxco [Museum of Religious art of Taxco]. 20 pesos.)
Weather: Today began in the low 50s and proceeded to warm to the mid 80s.
The morning walk & sweeping the terraces:
Dawn of 4/3/2022: Despite getting up half an hour later than usual, I was able to see an earlier sunrise. For the second time this year, I have experienced Daylight Savings. The rising sun granted Santa Prisca Cathedral and even rosier hue than usual. Church of Guadalupe. I peered indoors from afar to witness the many attendants of Sunday Mass. It seems that unlike the United States where masses seem predominantly attended by women and children, this one was attended by an equal ratio of men and women. Not many children were to be seen. Street leading from the tiendita where I procured this morning’s Diet Coke after being giggled at by the locals (they are not used to people procuring a morning soda… coffee being much more common). Santa Prisca on Sunday Morning (4/3/2022). This morning as I swept the terrace, I was told by Violante that I could feel free to plant the herbs in planters into the larger bins. I did not do it right then, but I took pictures of the plants and their intended locations for future reference. This one was a monster of a rosemary plant. Some form of lavender or rosemary. A type of mint or basil (basil is a type of mint). This one smelled like mint.
Breakfast at Scaffecito – 10/10 (As always)
Breakfast this morning consisted of Agua Mineral, café, fruta del día (papaya, mango, banana, cantaloupe, & pineapple), and bread & peach or orange marmalade (both made in-house). It was all delicious, and the additional bread filled me up enough to waylay lunch an additional 1.5 hours.
Taxco’s Museum of Religious Art – A heavy structure filled with equally heavy (on the mind) exhibits. A great number of the descriptions in these photos came from the placards attached to the exhibits in the museum.
Boleto de Museo de Arte Virreinal de Taxco (Museum of Religious art of Taxco). 20 pesos. Just a few meters away from the front desk, I witnessed it: A piano. It was locked, but on asking the attendant in Spanish if I could possibly play it at some point, she said to come back on Tuesday and ask the director. It’s a promising lead. An example of the clothing and a work desk from José de la Borda’s time period (1699 – 1778). A painting of José de la Borda – the man who funded the building of Santa Prisca Cathedral and many public works throughout Taxco. Courtyard to be found in Casa Borda (the site in which today’s Museum is kept). Objects that the Manila Route Ships transported from the Philipines to the Port of Acapulco. Porcelain, cinnamon, cloves, pepper, cardamom, and more spices. A black and white photo of the torturous trial that some men take upon themselves during SEMANA SANTA (an… interesting… Easter Tradition consisting of self-flagellation practices). In this case, they strap on massive rolls of thorns to their shoulder and carry them for a number of kilometers. This, of course, causes a bit of bleeding which can be seen in the picture. Some of the women, meanwhile, dress in black from head to toe, carry two very large candles – one for each hand – and tie heavy chains to their ankles. They ‘knee-walk’ for many kilometers, causing an eerie sound of chain-on-stone to be heard all the while. A virgin whose name I am uncertain of. All I know is that she was holding a vicious-looking crown of thorns. An interesting instrument for comfort. I found this entertaining, especially considering the first name of the fellow who made the altarpiece.
El Sr. Gregorio Valladares dice: Al perder una vaca, me encomendé con mucha devoción a la Virgen del Sagrado Corazon, pidiendole por su encuentre.
A los pocos dias de haberme encomendado, encontré mi vaca junto a dos árboles. Para agradecer el milagro, dedico el presente retablo. Agosto – 1953 A couple multi-centennial locks. The large lectern-type stand for book in the Choir is called by the Latin-derived word ‘fascistol. The most common type is characterized by carvings, polychromed or inlaid, consisting of a pedestal supporting a truncated pyramid with a ledge at the lower side on which rested choir books containing music written large enough to be read by the entire choir. The books were stored inside the same lectern. Irons for making communion wafers. These irons made of wrought iron in form of pincers were used in the the making of communion wafers. They are engraved with an image to decorate the wafer. The dough was pressed in the pincers and held over the coals until done, and the finished wafer was removed when cool. The largest candlestick (and possibly candle) that I’ve ever seen. It was designed for the Paschal candle in the 18th century. As per Wikipedia’s excellent description: “The Paschal candle is the first candle to be lit with a flame from this sacred fire, representing the light of Christ coming into the world. This represents the risen Christ, as a symbol of light (life) dispelling darkness (death).” It is otherwise known as the Easter Candle. Even this picture does not properly display the size of this massive candle stick. Still, it can be seen that it was much taller than me. Processional Lamp, 18th century. Distemper on canvase representing souls in Purgatory.
This room was the oratory or chapel of the house. The walls are decorated with ornamental designs in classic peristyle with columns. The east wall has a traced design of a crown with plant motifs similar to those on the interior vaults of Santa Prisca. As you can see in this room and others of the house, painted ornamentation was a common style of decoration. The designs were applied by a stencilling technique, by first tracing in the design with charcol and then coloring it with distemper.
Lunch at Cocina Económica El Buen Sazón – Plenty of delicious food for a meager sum – 10/10
Menu for Cocina Económica El Buen Sazón. At the hostess’s suggestion, I tried the Adobo a la Piña. Quote from the bible hanging on an old exposed wire. Adobo a la piña. Pork or goat simmered in pineapple juice and spices. The flavor of this meal was complex and tremendous. The whole spread – Adobo a la Piña, rice, refried beans (with salty grated cheese on top), and 5 large and very fresh handmade corn tortillas. They are probably the best tortillas I’ve had in Mexico yet. All of this for 130 pesos.
A return to El Adobe Restaurante de Taxco – Delicious soup & salad, great service – 10/10
View from my table at El Adobe. I got to witness the happenings of Taxco’s ‘second Zócalo’ surrounding the fountain below. First course: A ‘gratis’ plate of chips and salsa verde. The salsa was slightly spicy and had exceptional flavor. Tortilla soup accompanied by dried chili and chicharrón. The spices utilized were terrific, and the Oaxaca cheese therein lent some excellent texture. Ensalada de la casa. Fresh vegetables, grilled chicken breast, and homemade honey mustard vinaigrette. My body very much appreciated the greens. This picture was taken on my return to Casa Spratling (just to show how well-lit many of the streets are at night).
A late night find on the terrace:
Final Note: Museum days are always a bit long when it comes to the blog, but now my ‘mini-museum-of-most-interesting-exhibits’ is curated for future enjoyment. Presently, it is 10:44 AM on 4/4/2022, and I’ve been given leave to utilize the kitchen next door. I believe that will make for an interesting lunch or dinner.
Great post, appreciate the effort as I get to tag along without doing any of the heavy lifting, like that ant.